6.16.2006

Tbilisi, Georgia; Pictures Added

Sorry for the lack of posts this week, we've been busy exploring this city and, well, sleeping in. Scroll down to the previous posts, I've added some pictures from Turkey. Georgia pictures are on the way, but it's tough to find an internet cafe that allows us to upload our photos.

Tbilisi is strange for a number of reasons. One approaches the city by car and notices the rolling hills that nestle the city in its ancient place. The unique Georgian alphabet dominates signs, businesses, and buildings, with the ocassional Russian or English making an appearance. The architecture is ugly; most residents live in large concrete apartment complexes from the era in which the Kremlin dictated politics and life in this country. The buildings get me the most. Still, there is beauty to be found in these buildings, not from asethics but perhaps because they allow me a glimpse of a time and place that I have never known and never will know. Most of the apartment complexes lack a first floor, meaning there is no lobby area, just an elevator one enters from outside. Maybe so people didn't have a place to congregate. We're staying in a flat owned by a friend of our Georgian friend; he's in Germany for the World Cup so we have the place to ourselves. The flat is in one of these old Soviet style buildings just described, and the elevator that requires coins for operation feels as if it could plunge to the bottom of the shaft at any given moment. I prefer the stairs, but we're on the twelfth floor.

Yesterday we visited the food market, where one can purchase all sorts of dead animals, cheeses, and produce. We bought a piglet for roughly $30, two wheels of good quality cheese for $10, and pounds of salad greens, cumcumbers, and tomatoes for a few bucks. The meat was all lying out, and Joe and I inquired to George if bird flu was present in Georgia; it is not. Still, I had the suspicion that I was contracting some sort of disease the whole time. The market is in the poorer side of town, away from where we spend most of our time. There is a drastic difference in the neighborhoods of Tbilisi.

In the more fashionable part of town, as quite a few Georgians have put it, there are beautiful outdoor cafe/bars that litter the streets. This is where Georgians go to see and be seen, and our Georgian friends here would stop every ten feet or so to kiss a friend (they do it on the left cheek here) and chit chat. Travelers from everywhere congregate in this area and people are friendly. You feel instantly transported to Western Europe. It's strange though, there's something patently false about the whole thing. Or maybe it's just because I don't expect such a string of nice outdoor cafes to exist in this country. Either way, it's a great street to hang out and people watch, but it's not an accurate representation of how most Georgians live. And even though it's the best part of town, a beer is still only $1.50.

The most striking aspect of Georgia and Tbilisi is the culture, of which I'm trying to spin my head around. It's male-dominated, but not overtly mysogynistic. It's tough to engage women (at least the ones we've met) on anything more than a superficial level. This may be due to barriers of language or the short period in which we have known people here, but it sticks out.

Georgians are fantastic hosts and extremely friendly people. Apparently guests are viewed as though sent from God, and we're treated that way. Joe's friend George, who I now call my good friend, has been absolutely fabulous to us. The hospitality is so overwelming that the thought ran through my mind that maybe this is like the movie Hostel, and we're being buttered up before we're sold to psychopaths that enjoy torturing Americans. Fortunately, that's not the case. I've learned much about being a good host and sharing, it's really an experience and something that has already changed me.

Georgians toast before every drink, so here's a toast to all you reading the blog: thanks for thinking of us and thanks for tuning in, more posts to come!

25 Comments:

Anonymous Jarret said...

Loving the descriptions of the physical environment, Chase. I'm rereading Calvino's 'Le Città Invisibili' and your posts remind me of his more evocative paragraphs. My two Russian roommates say that you're lucky Georgia isn't exploding around you right now- they aren't fans of its political system.

9:02 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Being a Georgian living in America, I'm really sad for your beautiful buildings with beautiful lobbys, where people don't congregate either, or talk to each other for that matter!
At least, in Georgia neighbors know each other!
I'm also sorry for their hospitality, not everybody deserves it!!!!

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